Greg Wall on Blueberry Hill.		Ownership/Management: United States Forest Service, Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest. Land Manager: John Vanderheyden, acting District Ranger Darrington Ranger District 1405 Emmens St. Darrington, WA 98241 (360) 436-1155 Current status: As of May 2009 the road is blocked by avalanche debris approximately three miles short of the trailhead for Three O'Clock rock, and maybe three and a half short of those for the Comb and Exfoliation Dome. Green Giant Buttress and the famous classic "Dreamer" lie a little over three miles beyond the trailhead for Three O'Clock Rock. Access considerations: Three O'Clock Rock, The Comb, Green Giant Buttress, and Squire Creek Wall all lie within the Boulder River Wilderness. Power drills are prohibited in designated wilderness areas. Only Three O'Clock Rock has a maintained trail. Please don't block the road when you park. Other resources: Weather forecast Darrington Rock Climbing web page WCC Area Contact: Matt Perkins. For discussion: Jump to discussion forum
In addition to climbing, the area contains a popular hiking trail over Squire Creek Pass (well worth it!), old mines and mining relics for the curious, and a variety of scenic waterfalls. Camping is found in the Clear Creek valley as well as at the Clear Creek Campground on the Mountain Loop Highway roughly two miles southeast of Darrington, Washington WCC installation crew in front of the kiosk.		The climbing area known as Darrington lies in the Clear Creek and Copper Creek drainages, south of Darrington, Washington. There are even larger walls and some relatilvely new climbs in the Squire Creek drainage as well. The area is both rugged and remote, and approaches can involve moderate bushwacking or scrambling. The exfoliating granite domes tend toward lower angle climbing, with slabs and knobby faces predominanting. Most climbs are in the three-to-eight pitch range, with descents by rappel. Route grades generally range from 5.7 to 5.11. Many of the climbs reach a "summit" that is high above the surrounding valleys, thus giving them a sub-alpine feel. The season usually runs from April to October. The area was mined just before the end of the 19th century. The approach to one of Darrington's most famous climbs, Dreamer (5.9, 10 pitches), follows an old mining road and passes right through the old mining camp. The area was logged after World War II and a new logging road was built far into the Clear Creek valley. This brought climbers to the area in the late 1960s. Fred Beckey put up Witchdoctor Wall, a grade V climb on Exfoliaton Dome, in 1969. By the end of the 1970s, the area had dozens of routes from one to ten pitches. There has been steady (but never overwhelming) climbing activity ever since. Not long ago, the Forest Service proposed to gate the roads to Exfoliation Dome and Green Giant Buttress (Dreamer). In addition, the trail to Three O'Clock Rock had all but disappeared where it approaches the crag. However, in about 1998 or 1999, climbers wrote letters objecting to the road closures and voicing an active interest in working with the Forest Service to keep the area open. The Forest Service never did gate the roads. In the Spring of 2005, the Forest Service said it lacked funds to reopen the Clear Creek road after heavy damage by winter slides. The Washington Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund organized a letter writing campaign and the road was reopened. You can read more about the effort here. Despite this success, the maintenance of the Clear Creek Road is a continuing issue. Forest Service budets are severely strained and climbers must compete with other user groups in making the case that ours is an important recreational interest that deserves maintenance support. Fortunately, the Clear Creek road does not run near the actual Creek itself or traverse steep slopes, and the climbing area is is relatively close to town. Consequently, the cost and environmental concerns are not as great for Clear Creek as they are for many other roads in the region. Climbers have generally enjoyed good relations with the Forest Service and other area users in Darrington and we hope to keep it that way. The Forest Service has expressed concern with user-built trails and climbers have been asked not to construct new access routes. In addition, power drills are forbidden on crags that lie within the Boulder River Wilderness. Using power drills at these crags could net you a fine and create an access issue. Finally, keeping our visual impact low is important in a wilderness setting; we hope climbers won't leave behind brightly colored rappel slings. Climbers have been active stewards of the area. In 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2005, the Access Fund, The North Face, the Mountaineers, the Washington Trails Association (WTA), and the Washington Climbers Coalition have sponsored various work parties on the Squire Creek Pass trail (which leads to Three O'Clock Rock). The trail is vastly improved as a result, although it is still slightly rough and can be muddy in the first quarter mile or so. Most routes have had the old bolts upgraded and unsightly sling anchors replaced with chains. A partial guide to the area can be viewed here: Darrington Web Page