Climbing Area: Darrington

Greg Wall on
Blueberry Hill.
|
|
Ownership/Management:
United States Forest Service, Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest.
Land Manager:
John Vanderheyden, acting District Ranger
Darrington Ranger District
1405 Emmens St.
Darrington, WA 98241
(360) 436-1155
Current status:
As of May 2009 the road is blocked by avalanche debris approximately three
miles short of the trailhead for Three O'Clock rock, and maybe three and a
half short of those for the Comb and Exfoliation Dome. Green Giant
Buttress and the famous classic "Dreamer" lie a little over three miles
beyond the trailhead for Three O'Clock Rock.
Access considerations:
Three O'Clock Rock, The Comb, Green Giant Buttress, and Squire Creek Wall
all lie within the Boulder River Wilderness. Power drills are prohibited in
designated wilderness areas. Only Three O'Clock Rock has a maintained
trail.
Please don't block the road when you park.
Other resources:
Weather forecast
Darrington Rock Climbing web page
WCC Area Contact:
Matt Perkins.
For discussion:
Jump
to discussion forum
|
In addition to climbing,
the area contains a popular hiking trail over Squire Creek Pass (well worth
it!), old mines and mining relics for the curious, and a variety of scenic
waterfalls.
Camping is found in the Clear Creek valley as well as at the Clear Creek
Campground on the Mountain Loop Highway roughly two miles southeast of
Darrington, Washington
|

WCC installation crew in front
of the kiosk.
|
|
The climbing area known as Darrington
lies in the Clear Creek and Copper Creek drainages, south of Darrington,
Washington. There are even larger walls and some relatilvely new climbs in
the Squire Creek drainage as well. The area is both rugged and remote, and
approaches can involve moderate bushwacking or scrambling.
The exfoliating granite domes tend toward lower angle climbing, with
slabs and knobby faces predominanting. Most climbs are in the three-to-eight
pitch range, with descents by rappel. Route grades generally range from 5.7
to 5.11. Many of the climbs reach a "summit" that is high above the
surrounding valleys, thus giving them a sub-alpine feel. The season usually
runs from April to October.
The area was mined just before the end of the 19th century. The approach to
one of Darrington's most famous climbs, Dreamer (5.9, 10 pitches), follows an
old mining road and passes right through the old mining camp.
The area was logged after World War II and a new logging road was built far
into the Clear Creek valley. This brought climbers to the area in the late
1960s. Fred Beckey put up Witchdoctor Wall, a grade V climb on Exfoliaton
Dome, in 1969. By the end of the 1970s, the area had dozens of routes from
one to ten pitches. There has been steady (but never overwhelming) climbing
activity ever since.
Not long ago, the Forest Service proposed to gate the roads to Exfoliation
Dome and Green Giant Buttress (Dreamer). In addition, the trail to Three
O'Clock Rock had all but disappeared where it approaches the crag. However, in
about 1998 or 1999, climbers wrote letters objecting to the road closures
and voicing an active interest in working with the Forest Service to keep the
area open. The Forest Service never did gate the roads. In the Spring of
2005, the Forest Service said it lacked funds to reopen the Clear Creek road
after heavy damage by winter slides. The Washington Climbers Coalition and
the Access Fund organized a letter writing campaign and the road was reopened.
You can read more about the effort here.
Despite this success, the maintenance of the Clear Creek Road is a continuing
issue. Forest Service budets are severely strained and climbers must compete
with other user groups in making the case that ours is an important recreational
interest that deserves maintenance support. Fortunately, the Clear Creek
road does not run near the actual Creek itself or traverse steep slopes, and
the climbing area is is relatively close to town. Consequently, the cost and
environmental concerns are not as great for Clear Creek as they are for
many other roads in the region.
Climbers have generally enjoyed good relations with the Forest Service and
other area users in Darrington and we hope to keep it that way. The Forest
Service has expressed concern with user-built trails and climbers have been
asked not to construct new access routes. In addition, power drills are
forbidden on crags that lie within the Boulder River Wilderness. Using power
drills at these crags could net you a fine and create an access issue.
Finally, keeping our visual impact low is important in a wilderness setting;
we hope climbers won't leave behind brightly colored rappel slings.
Climbers have been active stewards of the area. In 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2005,
the Access Fund, The North Face, the Mountaineers, the Washington Trails
Association (WTA), and the Washington Climbers Coalition have sponsored
various work parties on the Squire Creek Pass trail (which leads to Three
O'Clock Rock). The trail is vastly improved as a result, although it is still
slightly rough and can be muddy in the first quarter mile or so. Most routes
have had the old bolts upgraded and unsightly sling anchors replaced with
chains.
A partial guide to the area can be viewed here:
Darrington
Web Page
|
|
WCC Homepage Current Issues Climbing Area Info Discussion Forum About the Wcc Miscellaneous Get Involved
|