Matt Perkins
06-13-2005, 12:54 PM
I recently came accross an interesting statement regarding fixed anchors, in an old Park Service climbing report:
Fixed Anchor Controversy
Those who keep abreast of issues in the climbing community have likely followed the controversy that erupted over the past year regarding fixed anchors in Wilderness areas. While never fully developed into clear direction for local Forests, the US Forest Service developed national policy that would ban the use of fixed anchors (from rappel slings to bolts) in designated Wilderness areas.
The National Park Service has not addressed this issue with a Service-wide policy, although some Parks with significant climbing activity have climbing management plans specific to their resource. Nevertheless, media reaction to the USFS policy quickly spread predictions that climbing nationwide was on the verge of prohibition. This included a Climbing magazine article (Nov 1998) announcing climbing as endangered within the Stephen Mather Wilderness (North Cascades National Park).
In actuality, there are currently no specific plans in either North Cascades National Park or Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest to implement a ban on climbing anchors. Of greater concern are issues such as human waste in the alpine and glaciated environment, and the proliferation of approach trails that often lead to severe erosion. Climbers are, of course, expected to travel and climb with as little impact as possible. Rangers patrolling climbing areas do remove excess, old webbing and all flagging found. Climbers are encouraged to do this also.
Individuals and climbing organizations concerned with access issues will do well to continue involvement and promotion of Leave No Trace principles. It is a likelihood that if we are not successful in this arena, as impacts increase, permit systems get stricter and fewer will be allowed to go. Wide practice of LNT translates to greater freedom and fewer restrictions. Mountaineering has a long tradition and history in the North Cascades, and with user responsibility, should have a future as well.
http://www.nps.gov/noca/climbing-1999.htm
Fixed Anchor Controversy
Those who keep abreast of issues in the climbing community have likely followed the controversy that erupted over the past year regarding fixed anchors in Wilderness areas. While never fully developed into clear direction for local Forests, the US Forest Service developed national policy that would ban the use of fixed anchors (from rappel slings to bolts) in designated Wilderness areas.
The National Park Service has not addressed this issue with a Service-wide policy, although some Parks with significant climbing activity have climbing management plans specific to their resource. Nevertheless, media reaction to the USFS policy quickly spread predictions that climbing nationwide was on the verge of prohibition. This included a Climbing magazine article (Nov 1998) announcing climbing as endangered within the Stephen Mather Wilderness (North Cascades National Park).
In actuality, there are currently no specific plans in either North Cascades National Park or Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest to implement a ban on climbing anchors. Of greater concern are issues such as human waste in the alpine and glaciated environment, and the proliferation of approach trails that often lead to severe erosion. Climbers are, of course, expected to travel and climb with as little impact as possible. Rangers patrolling climbing areas do remove excess, old webbing and all flagging found. Climbers are encouraged to do this also.
Individuals and climbing organizations concerned with access issues will do well to continue involvement and promotion of Leave No Trace principles. It is a likelihood that if we are not successful in this arena, as impacts increase, permit systems get stricter and fewer will be allowed to go. Wide practice of LNT translates to greater freedom and fewer restrictions. Mountaineering has a long tradition and history in the North Cascades, and with user responsibility, should have a future as well.
http://www.nps.gov/noca/climbing-1999.htm