Beacon Rock Updates

[Joseph Healy]

Matt suggested I start posting updates here and I'll start doing so starting with the next one...

Here is a link to the existing ones:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/474887/an/0/page/0#474887 (Beacon Rock Updates)

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/11/05...
===================

Illegal Route Markings - We had an incident of two climbs being marked with arrows scratched into the rock. We'd like to make it explicitly clear that marking of any kind is forbidden by State and BRSP regulations and that route finding is both a required skill and an integral [and desirable] part of climbing at Beacon Rock. If you know the way you don't need arrows and if the person following you can't follow your rope [and chalk] without arrows they don't belong on the route. Please do not make markings in or on the rock in any way whatsoever [even with chalk] as a) it sucks and b) it gives Jim Opdyke seizures and we are trying to keep him around at least as long as the SE Corner tree.

Bad Fall on "Free for Some" - As noted elsewhere on CC.com, a groundfall was taken on 8/30 on "Free for Some". This accident was a bad fall where otherwise good protection failed under specific, induced conditions. The belayer did a great job and leader was placing good protection; but in the fall got their leg under the rope snagging their second piece of pro and pulling it resulting in a ground fall. It is miraculous how little this lucky climber was injured given the fall and the topology at the base of the route. We don't have all the technical details yet, but this serves to remind us all to be constantly aware of the relationship of feet to rope while climbing; that helmets are good; and that "taking" on a difficult [trad] leads may not necessarily be an option available to you. The climber in question has displayed a stellar attitude in the wake of this incident and is to be commended for communicating the experience so well - all our best to their swift recovery and return to the rock.

SE Corner Tree - As one step in a long term effort to preserve this landmark tree we have installed slings and rings on it. Please use these rather than the tree for a belay or rappelling anchor. Also, with regard to rappelling from the tree: this has got to be one of the lousiest rappels on earth; just continue up to the Grassy Ledges main rap or, if you must rappel after the second pitch, then don't go up to the tree at all. Rather, at the top of the second pitch slab, instead of going up to the tree ledge, just go straight ahead 15 feet to the second pitch anchors of Young Warriors and rap there (2 raps with a 60, 1 rap with two 60's - don't do this with one 50 meter rope)

Trails and Ledge Paths - Please take extra care and watch your footfalls when walking on both the climber's trail to the base and on ledge paths such as up on Grassy Ledges. All trails and ledge paths are taking a bit of a beating this year. On the main climber's trail to the base in particular please pay attention and try not to further erode the trail. On ledges please pay particular attention to loose rocks and stones - especially smaller ones when going by them with either your feet or your rope. Helmets are definitely recommended.

Anchor Replacement Project

- As noted above the SE Corner tree got slings and rings, please use them if you don't feel comfortable building your own anchor in rock which is how the that pitch is traditionally anchored.

- The broken Z-pin at the top of "Jill's Thrills" was replaced by a long, fat Lost Arrow. The Z-pin was not all that well placed (too long for the placement) and pretty much came right out and the "eye" was also splitting off from the body due to folks stepping or hanging on it over the years. We tried to replace it with a shorter Z-pin but the only thing that worked [solid] was the Lost Arrow. The lower Bugaboo on the route is solid.

- The top anchors on "Flying Dutchman" have been replaced, but need to be tightened.

- Future efforts: we are onto the main south face columns with "Flying Dutchman" the first to go and we estimate another 25-30 anchors need to be replaced across the columns along with a smaller number of fixed pitons. Many of the intermediate anchors on these routes will get just the large Metolius Rap anchors that can be rapped directly and will not be outfitted with rings and slings as they don't get nearly the traffic and basically none of the raps are multi-directional, they just rap straight down the column. We have the costs covered, but let us know if you're up for helping out in the work sessions. They can make for a long, grueling day of humping gear, hauling, and jugging without doing much of anything in the way of climbing per se. If your up for that, then send an email to Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com with "Anchor Project" as the subject line and we'll get in touch with you.

Peregrines - Healthy and screaching about everytime we go out - magnificent in a dive and you can see the remains of their feasts on many of the column tops across the South side and on SE corner ledges: Seagulls, Blue Jays, and Pigeons in broad circled splashes of feathers and discarded wing sets...

Free Parking Pullout - As always, park diagonally, head in to the Southeast in the free pullout to the East of the main lot - not parallel to the road.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Andy Fitz]

Good stuff, Joseph. Thanks!

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/20/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: The work on the main South face columns is now underway. The key anchor at the top of "Flying Dutchman" has been replaced as have the four anchors below on the route and on "Bears in Heat" next to it. All the bolts in all the five anchor sets were spinners and loose. "Flying Dutchman" is the route that tops out at the far West end of the Grassy Ledges trail past the large pine tree. For experienced folks that are totally comfortable with rappelling, rapping "Flying Dutchman" is the fastest, cleanest, and most interesting way to get down from any route that ends up on the Grassy Ledges. It also might open your eyes to some possibilities beyond the [classics] "Blownout" and "Blood, Sweat and Smears".

There is a blue safety rope attached to the pine tree that can be used to navigate down the last thirty feet or so of the Grassy Ledges trail to get to the top anchor of "Flying Dutchman"; set up on it like a rappel or use a grigri. The other end of the blue rope is attached to the top anchor of "Wild Turkeys" - don't go down there, but rather use the rope to follow the trail down and West where it ends at the column top and anchor of "Flying Dutchman". The rappel from this top anchor is spectacular and a pair of 60 meter ropes (with rope stretch) will deposit you on the walk off ramp just above the trail. 70m ropes will put you directly on the trail with about 15 feet of rope to spare. There are two Oak trees at the base of the route and the walk off ramp is at the lower of the two. Pulling your ropes on this rap takes next to no energy at all and if you just let the rope come down under its own power at the very end of the pull it will come down clean staying out of the tree.

ARP - What's Next: The next Anchor Replacement Project session will be working East from this rap towards Blownout. Later sessions will eventually finish up by "Wrong Gull" at which point the East Half of the South face will be complete. After that the routes West of "Flying Dutchman" between "Dirty Double Overhang" and "Steppenwolf" will complete the Anchor Replacement Project. Help is always welcome as there are about 40 anchors left to repair/replace, it's hard work with little climbing, but pretty damn rewarding in its own right - if it looks like you have a day free help out, email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com and let us know.

Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: Please be extra careful with your feet and ropes anytime you are up on GL as there are lots of loose rocks about and the ledges won't be cleaned up until next year's pre-opening work session. Also, the BRCA, along with John Ernster of the BSRP Staff, are going to be working through some [safety] issues relative to topping out on a number of the [column] routes that end short of the GL trail and come up with a permanent solution to replace the blue rope that is up there now. Our intent is to come up with a solution that will both service more routes and be a bit less conspicuous. We'll keep you posted as this work develops but we won't be doing either the survey or planning until near the end of the year.

Kudos to contributors: Thanks for helping out with the Anchor Replacement Project are definitely in order:

- Ranger John Ernster and the Beacon Rock State Park Staff have been absolutely fantastic in providing logistical support, guidance, feedback, and oversight of the Anchor Replacement Project. We wouldn't be able to get any of this work done without their being behind the effort 110% of the way. Thank a Ranger the next time you meet one out at Beacon...

- Jim Opdyke has been just utterly invaluable in lending his intimate knowledge of Beacon history and providing guidance to this effort so be sure and give him a pat on the back if you run into him out there. Or, for that matter as a Founding Father of the BRCA, take him for a beer up at Skamania Lodge or down in PDX some time and ply him for a tale or two.

- Bill Coe another BRCA Founding Father, Bill has also been instrumental in providing guidance, brawn, material, and tools to the effort.

- Brooke Sandahl / Metolius for sourcing their fabulous and beefy Rap Anchors.

- Gavin Ferguson / US Outdoor Store for sourcing the webbing and Fixe rap rings.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

I was asked what gear we are using for the anchor replacement project. Here you go - it packs up at 104 pounds with water and a small rack to get up to Grassy Ledges:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/6299Anchor_Gear_0191.jpg

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/23/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: Flying Dutchman has been cleaned and restored to climbable and protectable condition, enjoy...

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/25/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

The Best Laid Plans...: Well, the plan to work East from "Flying Dutchman" towards "Blownout" has been put on hold after a survey the lower Grassy Ledges comprising the tops of "Blownout" and its neighbors and another survey of the tiers from "Little Wing" to "Blownout". We do have to consider the danger of potential rockfall during our work and, simply put, a sizeable loose rock load has built up across the lower and upper Grassy Ledges making work there problematic. Some of this work will have to be deferred to either next years pre-opening work session or a mid-week closure later this fall. So we've switched to the backup plan and have started working West from "Flying Dutchman".

"Ground Zero" and Big Wall Practice: Anchor replacements West of "Flying Dutchman" have commenced with "Ground Zero" which is in the middle of the South face columns. It is on the left side of the leftmost of a several broken column roofs when looking up from the trail. This is another spectacular climb and good practice zone for anyone considering going down to the Valley to do an El Cap route. The mid-route anchor is a classic valley anchor with four bolts in a row side-by-side. This is a perfect setting for a portaledge as the columns flatten out at this spot so the anchor is against a "wall" as opposed to in a notch between two columns. Setting up camp on a wall can be a challenge so use this route for practicing your bivy skills.

"Flying Dutchman" Rap: Once again we wanted to suggest you use this rap off the Grassy Ledges if you are a competent and experience rappeller and comfortable with intermediate raps with no standing ledges. You can get down this rap with pretty much any cord from a single 50 meter on up and you can get down in one shot with two 60 meter ropes. Using this rap will minimize any log jams on the traditional SE Corner descent rap and so also minimize potential rock fall that rap can sometimes generate when folks aren't careful.

Safety Issues

Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: As we've been reminding you there is lots of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges and yesterday we had a pretty serious incident of a football-sized rock getting launched from the ledges from above tunnel #1. We don't have the specific details, if you do send me a PM or email the Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com account. Again, this is deadly serious business and you MUST manage every footfall and rope movement when up on Grassy Ledges. If you are going to traverse the ledges with a rope from the point you hit them from the "SE Corner" then watch your rope like a hawk and clip a tree, bush, or put in a piece to keep the rope off the ground to the degree possible. If traversing on past the standard descent rap on your way up to the "Land of the Little People" Ledge or the "Flying Dutchman" rap then by all means clip that rap anchor on your way by it. Do whatever you have to do to keep your rope off the ground where it can launch rocks and be very, very careful how and where you step traversing the ledges. Another incident of this nature will likely trigger a temporary closure so that Grassy Ledges can be cleaned before climbing can resume.

General Issues

Dogs: Many folks we like and regard as good climbers and great company have dogs and bring them with them to Beacon. Part of the point of the re-founding of the BRCA is to restore relationships with the various agencies of record involved with managing Beacon and we are heavily focused on clear communication and complying with both State and Park rules and operating transparently within the bounds of the Climbing Management Plan. Part of those rules pertain to dogs and clearly state that dogs must be leashed at all times and further must be under the physical control of their owner at all times. Every climber we've seen bring a dog so far has clearly decided these rules don't apply to them or their dog[s] and that "their dog" would never cause any problems. This unfortunately is beginning to become an issue that is attracting more attention. Every dog owner no matter who they are in a climbing context needs to understand these rules do apply to them and their dogs. Also, be prepared to pack out your animal's waste as we've now had three complaints from climbers who've stepped in you know what. We understand it's a complete drag, but please comply with these rules if you are going to bring your dog out.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/30/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

Next Up...: Next up now that "Ground Zero" taken care is the "American Death Triangle" on "Iron Maiden" which we'll be able to reach with a double rope rap from "Ground Zero". After that our attention will jog briefly to the "Pipeline" anchor before returning to come up with a [safe] work strategy for the anchors between "Little Wing" and "Blownout". Again, there are safety issues working on some of the lower Grassy Ledges given a decades' accumulation of rock. After that we will be taking a hard look at the overall steep ramp that runs across the base of the South face columns. This ramp/face has become overgrown and is littered with old pins and a few new ones. We will be doing a survey of this face/ramp and developing work plans for it, but those will likely be a project for next year.

"Ground Zero" and Rapping: Anchor replaements on Ground Zero is now essentially complete with the exception of one old bolt/hanger that still needs to be removed. But, unlike "Flying Dutchman" which you can get down with anything from a single 50m, "Ground Zero" is a different beast. You can do it with a single 70m in two raps, but only by tying a knot in the end and relying on rope stretch to get you to the mid-point anchor. To be really safe you have to do three raps with a single 70m. Other than that you'll need two ropes. Once again, "Flying Dutchman" is definitely the way to go...

"Takes Fists" Top Anchor: The top anchor on "Takes Fists" has been moved out onto the face to a much safer location. Jim Opdyke has asked that the old anchor back on the column top not be removed for history's sake and so it stayed. This anchor was originally placed in a location that was great for sitting while drilling, but definitely wasn't in a good place at all relative to rapping (pulling) or belaying. Again, for all these routes it makes a lot more sense to come back down and do the "Flying Dutchman" rap. As a reminder of that this is a bare anchor with no webbing or rings.

[Note of thanks to Ivan for helping out with work on the above two routes...]

Unknown Route Info Needed: There is a route between "Ground Zero" and "Takes Fists" that goes up to the broken off column roof just right and a little below the one on "Ground Zero" to two existing Metolius Rap anchors - one grey, one beige. Jim Opdyke said this route was put up by someone younger a couple of years ago; if you have any info on this route or the person that put it up please PM me or email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com.

Safety Issues

Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: Well it turns out we had significant rockfall onto the trailhead/tunnel #1 area on both Saturday and Sunday. We still aren't entirely sure where from but are pretty damn sure it is from the main Grassy Ledges trail. The lower Grassy Ledges in that area have been inspected and given the infrequency of travel over them it is probably not the source whereas the main trail is littered. If we can't pin this down and if anymore incidents happen we will be proposing a brief (several day closure to clean the entire Grassy Ledges and the chutes that cross it. Please re-read the previous status update on this issue if this is the first time you are reading about it.

General Issues

Bird Bands: The Peregrines have to eat and we've found two bird bands on bones up on various column tops recently. One of these was from a Vancouver-based racing pigeon and the other has been sent to David Anderson, the WDFW Biologist chartered with managing the Peregrines, we'll keep you posted as to what it was when we find out. Please keep your eyes open for these and turn them in to the BSRP Staff or contact myself, Jim Opdyke, or Bill Coe and we'll get them passed along. As a side note we've seen the Peregrines on almost every trip out to Beacon this year - keep your eyes and ears open as the are a pretty amazing sight, particularly in a steep dive...

Bears: One of Mama's two year olds was idling along the tracks between Beacon and the boat launch yesterday. Looked healthy and happy as he clamored back down into the nature reserve along the river.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 10/6/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

"Flying Swallow": The top anchor on "Flying Swallow" has been replaced, but it does not have webbing and rings on it yet but definitely needs them - this is not a rap for rapping off the hangers due to the friction when trying to pull the rope. From this rap you can get to various anchors with two ropes. The mid-point anchor for "Iron Maiden" is directly below on this rap and, in fact, you have to swing a bit to the left to get back to the mid-point anchor for "Flying Swallow". Work was rudelying interrupted by rain and work on the anchors in this area will be completed this Sunday.

"Iron Maiden": As mentioned, the mid-point anchor on "Iron Maiden" has been replaced and it will remain just hangers without webbing and rings which aren't needed on this anchor. The old bolts and hangers have not yet been removed but will be in the next few days.

"Double Dirty Overhang": The top anchor for "Double Dirty Overhang has been located and this aid climb has some issues. The route from the anchors up to Grassy Ledges proper or to the "Flying Dutchman" rap is severely overgrown making entry and exit from the anchors difficult. Further, the upper part of the route itself is now completely overgrown with bushes and trees. It will take a substantial cleaning effort to recover this climb; likely work for next year.

[Note of thanks to Mark (HillsHugger) for helping hump gear up to the Grassy Ledges and to Shane and Lee for helping hump it back out in the rain.]


Safety Issues

Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all...

General Issues

Central Columns Route Adoption: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter.


Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 10/11/05...
===================

Anchor Replacement Project

"Iron Maiden": Work on "Iron Maiden" is complete.

"Flight Time": Work on "Flight Time" is complete.

"Flying Swallow": Work on "Flying Swallow" is complete. The top anchor has now been outfitted with webbing and rings but some comments and precautions are in order relative to this route and rappelling it. First off, topping out to the tourist trail or going down "Flying Dutchman" are the best ways off the upper Grassy Ledges after doing any of the routes Between "Flight Time" and "Flying Dutchman". That said, the "Flying Swallow" top anchor is an excellent example of where equalizing webbing anchors are the deal; this anchor allows you to rap "Flight Time", "Flying Swallow", and "Iron Maiden" depending on what direction you leave the ledge - left, center, or right, respectively. But be forewarned:

- You need two ropes.

- Rapping center or right ("Flying Swallow"/"Iron Maiden") the rope goes over about 8' of rock and you will both need to pull very hard or bring a jumar and aider to pull the rope - one person can't pull it just with hands (and it more or less welds to the rock in the rain).

- Rapping left ("Flying Swallow"/"Flight Time") one person can pull the rope by hand, but you may still want a jumar to make it easier. That said, the rap down "Flying Swallow" is quite a journey in it's own right with those caveats. This is THE rappel to do of the three if you are going to do the rap.

Also, below and left on "Flying Swallow" about thirty feet from this anchor is probably the best bivy column top at Beacon; a truly spectacular spot. This ledge has no rappable anchor at the moment, however, so if you were going to do it you'd still need two 60's, rap off the left side of the top anchor ledge, and leave the ropes hanging during the night (and don't let those ropes go flying out of reach at any time).

P.S. Here is a shot of one of the FA anchors from "Flying Swallow" put up in '65 by Kim Schmitz, Earl Levin, and Dean Caldwell. The new anchor is immediately below this one and we left this classic for show and tell...

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/6299Caldwell_Anchor.JPG

[Note of thanks to Jim and Larry for helping out on Sunday...]

"Flying Dutchman": Currently has a 9mm haul line fixed on it for the Anchor Replacement Project; if you rap or climb this route please make sure when you're done that the end of the haul line is accessible from the ledge of the lower of the two trees where you walk off the rap, thanks. The area at the top of the climb has been cleaned up a bit and the blue safety line from the big pine tree is cloved to the "Flying Dutchman's" old anchors; please clip this safety line if you are going down to check out or do the rap and please leave the safety line biner and clove hitch as you found them, thanks once again.

"Upper Grassy Ledges": There is currently a safety line across the top of the Upper Grassy ledges to allow us to safely traverse them with the haul bag during the Anchor Replacement Project; if you use it to go check out the upper ledges - great - but on returning, use it to come back down by the very small pine tree right where the trail ends at "Flying Dutchman", which would put it on the left, or West side, of a rounded rock outcropping. Do not use it to come down on the right, or East side, of this rock towards the line up to the "Land of the Little People" ledge as it is needed out by the edge for humping the haul bag up after the hauling.

"Next Up": We've replaced thirty four anchors to-date and there are still eleven anchors West of "Flying Dutchman" to do before returning attention to the stretch to the East on over the Lower Grassy Ledges to "Little Wing". This will take one or two more good days and then probably four or five work sessions for the fifteen anchors in that latter stretch to finish up the project. Some of these will be hauling jobs, some will be hiking up and rapping down from the tourist trail; as always, any volunteers are greatly appreciated.

Safety Issues

Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall [repeating]: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all...

General Issues

Central Columns Route Adoption [repeating]: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter.

"SE Corner" Tree Discussion: See post earlier in this thread and any continuing discussion in another "Oregon Cascades" thread titled: Beacon - SE Corner Tree Discussion (http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/507085/an/0/page/0#507085), thanks.


Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[Joseph Healy]

===================
Beacon Rock Update - 10/16/05...
===================

SE Corner Tree:

Slings and rap rings were removed today.

SE Corner P2 Anchor:

Slings and rings were also removed from this anchor. This anchor on the first pass just had the hangers replaced. It will be redone shortly to bring the two hangers into closer proximity. How many of you actually do this rap or see folks doing it?

Grey Sling Swap Out:

The gray slings on SE Corner and the main SE descent raps were swapped out for black webbing so they are not mistaken for 'weathered' slings by beginners.

General Issues

SE Corner Slab Cam Removed: For those of you that hug the dihedral, the mangled cam is now gone. It came out fairly reasonably by manipulating all four cam tips at the same time with fingers.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association