Joseph Healy
03-31-2006, 10:33 AM
===================
Beacon Rock Update - 3/28/06...
===================
Early Opening / Peregrine Rumors
Just for the record. Peregrine monitoring has not yet begun and will only be formally initiated by David Anderson of the WDFW though we may start up on our own. This year's Peregrine's nesting status - both activity and location - are undetermined at this time.
Beacon is NOT opening early as of this time. That status may change if and when we determine the status and location of any Peregrine nesting or lack thereof. If, and that's "if", the Peregrines are proven not to not be nesting on the South face arrangements will be initiated with the necessary agencies to open it to climbing at the earliest opportunity after such a determination by WDFW.
For now the South face is closed and will remain so until either July 15th or until the WDFW determines otherwise. Thank you for your understanding, cooperation, and patience in this matter and rest assured we will be working to have the South face open as soon as possible.
Joseph Healy
Bill Coe
Beacon Rock Climbers' Association
================================================== ======================
hanmi
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
I just phoned the park itself at (509) 427-8265, the recording said that as of March 31, technical climbing remains closed on the South face, but is OPEN on the NW corner between boundary markers. It also said the parking day use fee is no longer required as of April 1st.
What's on the NW corner?
================================================== ======================
JosephH
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Hanmi,
Yes, the NW face between the signs (just West of the parking lot / drinking fountain and East of where the tourist trail hits the rock) is open. There are a couple of short bolted routes that caused enough commotion to shut down development on the NW face a couple of years ago and beyond that most stuff eventually ends up fairly savagely run out as it stands now.
We are working with BRSP staff to resolve the development issues and hope to have new development protocols in place sometime this year so we can get back to it. As it stands now no new fixed protection is allowed. Again we will are actively on this one as there is the potential for some nice stuff up there. That said, if it's dry for a couple of days it's still worth exploring if you've never looked at it all...
================================================== ======================
kevbone
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Just to the right of the parking lot (water fountain) are a couple of realy nice face climbs that protect with gear, they are both about 10+ and are not for beginer climbers, you can TR all of these routes by climbing up the 5.6 gully (dirty) to the big tree, if you climb the route directly under the tree, it is called Forbiden slab 10B, with a piton.
Way over to the right is a climb called Genesis, put up by the Flying Dutchman about 3 years ago. It goes at about 5.7 or so, there are a couple of bolts but they are optional. At that anchor you can step right and climb a bolted climb up to an anchor, from there you step left and climb the original line (Circa 1910 or so), using the original metal rods sticking out of the wall about 8 inches or so, your pro is slinging these.
Unfortunataly like Joseph said we are not able to develop any more over here due to some sensitive moss growing there.
But what is there is fun.
================================================== ======================
JosephH
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Kevin,
We'll be able to develop over there again soon. The BSRP staff and WSP biologists weren't "sensitive" about the moss itself so much as the snow shovel one of our intrepid warriors was (somewhat innocently) using to remove entire slabs of it. There was simply a bit of a miscommunication and misunderstanding. The boys thought they were being told that the NW face was no longer considered "habitat" once it was designated as climbable. That was never true or an interpretation that even entered into the parks folk's mind. The whole of Beacon Rock is considered habitat - albeit, some parts of it more sensitive then other parts - and the explicit interpretation to be taken away from that is this:
You can climb, but do so with the least footprint and impact possible - i.e. skip the snow shovels and don't clean entire slabs and faces.
We're well on the road to getting the whole affair sorted out and put behind us and we'll keep you and everyone posted on that progress as we have something new to report...
================================================== ======================
kevbone
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Cool!!!
Beacon Rock Update - 3/28/06...
===================
Early Opening / Peregrine Rumors
Just for the record. Peregrine monitoring has not yet begun and will only be formally initiated by David Anderson of the WDFW though we may start up on our own. This year's Peregrine's nesting status - both activity and location - are undetermined at this time.
Beacon is NOT opening early as of this time. That status may change if and when we determine the status and location of any Peregrine nesting or lack thereof. If, and that's "if", the Peregrines are proven not to not be nesting on the South face arrangements will be initiated with the necessary agencies to open it to climbing at the earliest opportunity after such a determination by WDFW.
For now the South face is closed and will remain so until either July 15th or until the WDFW determines otherwise. Thank you for your understanding, cooperation, and patience in this matter and rest assured we will be working to have the South face open as soon as possible.
Joseph Healy
Bill Coe
Beacon Rock Climbers' Association
================================================== ======================
hanmi
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
I just phoned the park itself at (509) 427-8265, the recording said that as of March 31, technical climbing remains closed on the South face, but is OPEN on the NW corner between boundary markers. It also said the parking day use fee is no longer required as of April 1st.
What's on the NW corner?
================================================== ======================
JosephH
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Hanmi,
Yes, the NW face between the signs (just West of the parking lot / drinking fountain and East of where the tourist trail hits the rock) is open. There are a couple of short bolted routes that caused enough commotion to shut down development on the NW face a couple of years ago and beyond that most stuff eventually ends up fairly savagely run out as it stands now.
We are working with BRSP staff to resolve the development issues and hope to have new development protocols in place sometime this year so we can get back to it. As it stands now no new fixed protection is allowed. Again we will are actively on this one as there is the potential for some nice stuff up there. That said, if it's dry for a couple of days it's still worth exploring if you've never looked at it all...
================================================== ======================
kevbone
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Just to the right of the parking lot (water fountain) are a couple of realy nice face climbs that protect with gear, they are both about 10+ and are not for beginer climbers, you can TR all of these routes by climbing up the 5.6 gully (dirty) to the big tree, if you climb the route directly under the tree, it is called Forbiden slab 10B, with a piton.
Way over to the right is a climb called Genesis, put up by the Flying Dutchman about 3 years ago. It goes at about 5.7 or so, there are a couple of bolts but they are optional. At that anchor you can step right and climb a bolted climb up to an anchor, from there you step left and climb the original line (Circa 1910 or so), using the original metal rods sticking out of the wall about 8 inches or so, your pro is slinging these.
Unfortunataly like Joseph said we are not able to develop any more over here due to some sensitive moss growing there.
But what is there is fun.
================================================== ======================
JosephH
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Kevin,
We'll be able to develop over there again soon. The BSRP staff and WSP biologists weren't "sensitive" about the moss itself so much as the snow shovel one of our intrepid warriors was (somewhat innocently) using to remove entire slabs of it. There was simply a bit of a miscommunication and misunderstanding. The boys thought they were being told that the NW face was no longer considered "habitat" once it was designated as climbable. That was never true or an interpretation that even entered into the parks folk's mind. The whole of Beacon Rock is considered habitat - albeit, some parts of it more sensitive then other parts - and the explicit interpretation to be taken away from that is this:
You can climb, but do so with the least footprint and impact possible - i.e. skip the snow shovels and don't clean entire slabs and faces.
We're well on the road to getting the whole affair sorted out and put behind us and we'll keep you and everyone posted on that progress as we have something new to report...
================================================== ======================
kevbone
03/30/06
Re: Beacon Rock Update Notice 3/28/2006
Cool!!!