Peshashtin Pinnacles

[Chris Simmons]

Took some time Saturday to check out the Pinnacles. They look great - there's new grass growing all over the hillside, and no obvious signs of slope failure despite the heavy rains this winter.
I was a dumbass and forgot to write down the Point-Of-Contact number for access inquiries. I'd like to see the Pinnacles open as soon as possible.
Does anyone have them number?
Is there someone in the WCC assigned to make these kind of "official" phone calls?
If not, can I have the number and someone's blessing to say, "Hi, this is Chris Simmons from the Washington Climbers Coalition. I'm calling to..."

[Andy Fitz]

Go for it, Chris. The number I have is (509) 664-6373. J.A. Sackman was the ranger as of a few years ago.

[Matt Perkins]

We've talked about revising oiur crag profiles somewhat, to possibly include the following information:



Ownership/Management: [indicate w/ text]

Land Manager: [give name, if applicable, & contact info]

Climbing notes: [paste in Matt's text regarding type of climbing, history, etc.]

Current status: [open/closed/restricted, etc.]

Access considerations: [if there are seasonal restrictions or special considerations, describe them here. If there's a management plan in place that regulates route development, etc., indicate the pertinent text. Maybe have a link to a PDF file of the plan or something.]


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If you call them, take note of anything that might be pertinent.

In addition, I"d be interetested in learning if there is any possibility that we could get longer hours there. It seems to me that the last time I was over there in the Summer, the park closed well before dusk - barring climbing during what on hot days may be exactly when you want to climb. I think the issue is that the ranger has to come lock the gate, so there may be no real way to change this, though.

[Matt Perkins]

You may already be aware of this, but one thing to know is that there is an existing committee of climbers who works with State Parks regarding climbing management at Peshastin. They review new route proposals (I don't think there have been any for a few years, at least) and they have organized work parties and the like. They recently inspected the place after the fire, and I believe they concluded that the routes were not fire damaged - at least with respect to the fears that the rock or bolts may have been weakened by the heat.

[Chris Simmons]

I wasn't aware of a committee - do you have any names?

[Matt Perkins]

I think Freeman Keller is heavily involved. I just now sent you his email address.

[Andy Fitz]

The "committee" is established under the park's management plan. I have a copy of the plan, which outlines the rules for bolting, cleaning, etc. at the park. I want to get the plan (and others like it) posted on our site, so climbers have a place to go for one-stop shopping to learn everthing related to access at each cragging area.

[Chris Simmons]

I've just traded emails with Freeman, and here's his full response:
"Hi Chris

"A very brief update with what I know right now. Unfortunately all my notes are at work and I won't be able to send them to you until monday, and you'll be off having fun in Nevada then.

"The Pinnacle is scheduled to reopen on the 19th, in fact they are having some sort of special Parks anniversary thing and parking is free (yippee!). My contact at parks is a ranger named Matt - don't remember his last name (its in my notes) but you should be able to address an e-mail to <Wenatchee.Confluence@PARKS.WA.GOV> and address it to Matt. We had a work day in the Park last fall and did some trail maintenance and reseeding afte the fire, and because it was a mild winter, there doesn't seem to be much additional damage to the trails. The Washington Trails Association will be doing volunteer trail work from March 26 to April 2 - folks can sign up on their web site www.wta.org

"Parks asked local climbers if we thought that the fire had damaged any of the climbing anchors or the rock itself and in our opinion, it was not hot enough against the rocks to do any damage. I hesitate to say it is "safe" - but I think we can say that there was not any effects from the fire.

"From the time of the opening of the Park several local climbers have acted as informal "advisors" to State Parks. Since this was a first in Washington (a state owned climbing Park) they wanted our input on various management issues. The primary people who have worked with them are Fred Stanley, Park Shipman, and myself, with others including Al Koury participating. Cal Folsom, Fred, and myself were some of the "bolt fairys" who were involved in the rebolting project before the reopening.

"I think all of us would welcome help with these advisory matters. We really don't have a title, nor do we meet with any regularity - usually just when Parks has a question (like the fire). We list ourselves as Chelan County Mtn Rescue members to absolve individuals from liability (the rebolting was done as a CCMR project). Matt had mentioned to me that he had received inquiries from climbers who wanted to be on the advisory committee - I assume that was you and we would welcome your input.

"Now the real thorny issue - Parks have granted us permission to do any work we feel necessary to improve the climbing at the Pinnacles, including motorized drilling to replace or add anchors as we deem necessary. That is a rather heady responsibility and we have had long discussions about rebolting ethics. When we did the pre-opening rebolting our group decided that we would replace, in situ if possible, existing bolts and provide the safest possible belay and rappel anchors, relocating them if it made sense. In most cases we pulled the original 1/4" bolts (often with little effort), and drilled the same hole for a 3/8 by 4" bolt that was epoxy grouted into the rock. Only when the old hole shattered did we move the bolt, and to the best of my knowledge, only one bolt was added to a route (and I regret that).

"In the past few years various climbers have suggested that some routes would be better (safer, more popular, etc) if they had bolts added - each climber has his own list but there are some common ones. We have resisted, even tho we do have permission from Parks - Fred and I feel like the first ascent ethic applies to this rather historic place (after all, he did some of the FA's) and there are some individuals in our area who have taken bolt chopping to be their personal task. We have resisted taking this debate to the climbing forums for fear of starting some kind of war - but we are still faced with the delima on adding bolts to established routes. Last fall I did give the "Ethics" issue of Rock and Ice to Matt to give him a little better understanding of the whole first ascent vs. retrobolting question.

"We have decided that this spring we would finish the work that was done before the reopening. There are a few routes that never got rebolted and some that have the recalled Leper hangers and old home made ones. There were a couple of poorly place bolts that need to be pulled and redone - but in all these cases we want to simple replace the old bolts with new ones. That still doesn't resolve the question of adding new ones.

"I believe having the input of the WCC would be very vaulable in this and would like to talk to you when you get back. Please feel free to give me a call - I'm easiest to reach during the day at 509.886.1837, but you can try me in the evenings at 509.662.7077.

"Thanks so much for your interest and have a great time in Red Rocks. Do Crimson Chrysalis for me and call when you get back.

"Freeman"

[DCramer]

I agree that many of the bolts need to be replaced at Peshahstin. Most notable is Bomb Shelter - a historically significant, and enjoyable route, that is basically unclimbable now. The fixed anchors on Bomb Shelter possibly are the original placmeents. With regard to adding bolts, I would think conservatism would be a prudent default position but any decision would have to be made on a route by route basis. I can quickly think of one route, Potholes Direct 5.10, that was made much riskier after it was rebolted due to changing bolt placement positions.

I have worked with a local group that has raised funds and replaced anchors throughout the NW. We recieved donations of USHBA titanium glue anchors originally for use at Mt Erie. These might be the perfect ticket for use on some of the steeper Peshastin routes. We also have a large collection (over 300 stainless bolts) and some funds that could be used to puchase an anchor more appropriate to the Peshastin enviroment.

Darryl

[Matt Perkins]

Peshastin Pinnacles State Park is now closed for the Winter. It to saddens me that it is gated and climbing is forbidden during the fall and Spring, which is when I generally want to go there.