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Matt Perkins
09-26-2007, 11:41 AM
On September 19, 2007, Mark Hanna and I attended a workshop that is part of a Federal relicensing process for the Spada Reservoir, near Static Point. Land managers from several agencies attended: the PUD, City of Everett, Forest Service, and DNR. Kayakers, climbers, Mtn Bikers, and miners were there.

Static Point is on land managed by DNR. We learned that there is a new planning process underway, and the current vision is to close the road known as the "South Shore Road" at Spada Reservoir. They would not even allow mountain biking; this would add three or four miles to the hike into Static Point.

We are not clear about the status of all of this and intend to follow up to learn more about it.

Fore more info: http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/staticupdate.htm

Andy Fitz
10-07-2007, 06:09 PM
I did a little research this week. Bottom line: We are still very early in this process and I think we have a significant opportunity to influence it.

From what I understand, a local DNR official has indicated there are three NRCAs on DNR land in the vicinity of Static Point that are proposed to be expanded to include Static Point, with the access road then being decommissioned. Apparently, the DNR official also opined that climbing might not be allowed once the NRCA is expanded.

There are, in fact, three NRCAs in the vicinity of Static Point: 1) the Mt. Pilchuck NRCA; 2) the Morning Star Break NRCA; and 3) the Greider Ridge NRCA. From looking at a hard copy map of DNR lands, the Greider Ridge NRCA appears closest to Static Point, but it doesn’t appear to currently encompass it. Here’s a link to a DNR page describing each area: http://www.dnr.wa.gov/nap/nrcadesc.html

Given this, I looked at what would have to happen for DNR to expand the NRCAs.

NRCAs are created to preserve DNR-managed lands with the following characteristics:

(1) Lands identified as having high priority for conservation, natural systems, wildlife, and low-impact public use values;

(2) An area of land or water, or land and water, that has flora, fauna, geological, archaeological, scenic, or similar features of critical importance to the people of Washington and that has retained to some degree or has reestablished its natural character;

(3) Examples of native ecological communities; and

(4) Environmentally significant sites threatened with conversion to incompatible or ecologically irreversible uses.
RCW 79.71.020.

The NRCA concept was created to give DNR another management tool for what would otherwise be “trust lands”: property owned by the state that DNR is obliged by law to manage for income generation (to benefit schools) through logging or other resource extraction.

For an NRCA to be created out of trust lands, the legislature has to appropriate money for DNR to “buy out” the value of the trust lands. RCW 79.71.050 (“The department is authorized to transfer fee simple interest or less than fee interests in trust land…for the creation of natural resources conservation areas, provided the owner of the trust land receives full fair market value compensation for all rights transferred”). I’m still gathering information about this process, but I think it involves DNR having to solicit public input and gain the support of the Interagency Committee on Outdoor Recreation in order to establish it as a priority, then going to the legislature and asking for the funds. This sounds like a potential process in which to make our voice heard.

Even with an appropriation, before the NRCA boundaries can be established, DNR has to hold a public hearing in the county in which majority of the NRCA is proposed to be established (in this case, Snohomish). RCW 79.71.060. This is a definite point for climbers to participate.

Once the NRCA is established, DNR still has to develop a management plan to “specify what types of management activities and public uses” will be allowed in the NRCA. RCW 79.71.070. I was involved in the management plan process for the Mt. Si NRCA (affecting Little Si). It was in this plan that DNR made decisions about decommissioning roads and what public uses to allow, basically “zoning” the NRCA for different intensities of use. By fully participating in the plan development, we had an absolute direct impact on the plan. Hang-gliders, who used to use a (now closed) road to reach the summit ridge of Mt. Si, didn’t participate and got shut out.

With respect to the planning process, DNR has deemed that only “low impact” public uses are allowed in NRCAs. See RCW 79.71.020. “Low-impact public use” is defined as follows: “‘Low-impact public use’ includes public recreation uses and improvements that do not adversely affect the resource values, are appropriate to the maintenance of the site in a relatively unmodified natural setting, and do not detract from long-term ecological processes.” RCW 79.71.030

We have a solid argument that the nature of climbing at Static Point meets this definition. In fact, we can argue that climbing at Static Point is a “low-impact public use value” that makes the area appropriate for NRCA protection. We also have solid precedent behind us, with climbing already being an expressly allowed use within the Mt. Si NRCA.

Given all this, I propose a three-pronged approach:

1. Write a letter to DNR to indicate our interest in the area, describe the significance of Static Point, ask DNR to define where it’s at in the NRCA (or any other) process, and ask DNR to include us in all future actions related to the area. I’m willing to take a first stab at this letter.

2. Recruit any allies who might also be affected by the road closure.

3. Examine the FERC re-licensing process to see if it might bear any fruit (e.g., mitigation funds to help with road maintenance).

Mark Hanna
10-11-2007, 12:03 PM
Here are draft meeting minutes for the workshop we attended. Given the definitions of the RCW, it does seem likely that climbing at Static is consistent with a managed NRCA. Further alliances with other interested groups can only help. Thanks for the research Andy!

MH

Mark Hanna
11-12-2007, 07:42 AM
Here is the letter we sent to DNR regarding concerns, interests, and observations of the NRCA development and FERC relicensing plan in process:

Andy Fitz
01-09-2008, 11:09 PM
Have we ever gotten a response, Mark?

Mark Hanna
03-06-2008, 12:03 PM
Sorry for being out of touch so long- new job and all...

Andy- we have not received any response from our submittal.

MH

Matt Perkins
03-07-2008, 03:53 PM
You do, however, continue to get the updates from Dawn Pressler, don't you Mark?

Frank Bush
01-06-2009, 03:20 PM
whats up yall... I'm new to the WCC and I'm looking foward to being a part of whats happening around here! For the last four years I have been climbing and setting routes local to me (from north bend to snoqualmie pass.)
Networking with other climbers is something I havent gotten around to yet so... I guess i'm just excited to be here!

Now i'll carry on with my post for this thread...

I noticed its been almost a year since any activity on this thread and I was wondering if any decisions or responses have been made? I have never been to static point and I am stoked to get some lines in there this summer or whenever its accessable. cheers.

Matt Perkins
01-13-2009, 07:46 AM
We have recently received good news about Static Point. In the current planing document the Snohomish County PUD is proposing to maintain the road to the south shore of Spada Reservior, beyond where the spur turns off toward Static Point.

http://www.snopud.com/Content/External/Documents/relicensing/Relicense/PLP123108.pdf
See pages 224-226

In a "recreational needs analysis" released in October, rock climbing at Static Point was listed as an important recreational opportunity in the Spada Reservoir area.

Matt Perkins
04-19-2009, 12:44 PM
Presently, the road into Sultan Basin is closed. A report on NWHikers.net indicated that somebody walked in to find that there were some culverts replaced on that road but otherwise it appears in good shape though there remains snow on the higher portion of it up around Olney Pass. A PUD representative confirmed that it may not be until July that the road is reopened but we are not aware of any change in the management proposal associated with the December 31, 2008, filing. If anybody has further information, post up.

Off White
09-14-2009, 12:09 PM
I made a trip to Static on 9/13/09, my first in well over a decade. Here's an access report:

Sultan Basin Road is closed to through traffic, but you can detour via Kellog Lake Road. I assume this is a short term road work diversion.

The road is gated at Olney Pass, and sign says it won't reopen until mid October. There's a rebuilt culvert at a slide path near the top, and work ongoing at a muddy section just before the bridge. There's some work happening at the bridge too, with steel plates on the far side and a bunch of equipment parked on the road.

The Static Point spur is blocked by a large pile of trees. There's no clear trail though it, but it's pretty easily penetrated on the right. Clearly no provision for keeping the access open as a trail though.

The road is indeed thoroughly decomissioned, with 20 some berms at former culvert sites. Some of the berms are large and steep, and while there is the beginning of some boot built tracks on these, it would have been better if an actual trail had been built, berm wall erosion may become a problem on some of these. Again, it's obvious no provision was made to keep this as an access trail.

After the two rocks at what has most recently been considered the parking area, the going gets tough. I suspect there was a lot of damage last winter, lots of downed trees in the 3 to 4 inch diameter size across the trail at about waist height. By "lots" I mean probably more than a hundred. At numerous points its actually hard to find the old road bed, and the trail is in poor shape, very vague and discontinuous. We encountered a dispirited team of four who had been unable to find the uphill trail, despite having been to the crag several times in the past.

We pressed on, looking for the large wash with the view of the peak that I recalled. There were a number of culverts on the road, and we prospected up one gully I concluded was not the correct one, then finally arrived at the bright white granite filled wash I recalled. I'd gauge our speed in the bushwhack realm as well below a mile an hour. I was just amazed to think I used to park at this location,

The trail up through the woods has had some blowdown on the lower bit, but my recollection that it stayed near the gully edge made it fairly easy to piece it together. It wasn't hard to follow above that, though the tread is slowly disappearing.

After climbing, we opted to continue down the wash and boulder hop down the river to the bridge. I wouldn't say it was any easier than the bushwhack, but at least it was a different flavor of difficult.

So, you who have dealt with DNR, how are they likely to react to a volunteer trail repair project? The stretch between the old parking area and the turn up the hill needs it badly, and it would be best to have chainsaws & brushcutters involved, a machete and pruning shears would not be sufficient. Static Point is a great slabbing area, but the present arduous approach (likely the worst to a cragging area in Washington that I have done in 30 years) is a significant impediment.

Matt Perkins
09-15-2009, 11:20 PM
It has been several years since I've talked to anybody at DNR or Snohomish PUD about this issue but they were pretty amenable to our going up there and cutting Alder trees from the abandoned road so as to maintain a walkable path.