New area Development

[Mark O'neill]

I am looking for ideas and connections. I have been talking with the land manager where I live (Orcas Island) regarding starting a new climbing area. He has just given me approval to "start working on it" One hitch in the getalong is that the area at the base of the cliff band that I have been looking at is a designated National Forest Area. It lies within a state park as well. I have been asked to come up with a proposal for oversight and access that will be presented at both National and state levels.

Up to now the ranger has been impressd with the ethics of the climbers that have discussed things with him but now we need to do all the official stuff.

What ever help or direction you can give would be appreciated

[Andy Fitz]

We should have park management plans from three other state parks (Beacon Rock, Exit 38, and Peshastin) up on the site soon as PDF files. You can use these as examples.

Is it National Forest at the base, or is the area designated as a "natural forest area" by State Parks?

Good luck!

[Mark O'neill]

The area is Natural Forest area. Sorry my bad. I was just looking back and realized my mistake.

This is one of the challenges with this crag. Trail access will be a difficulty with the NFA desgnation. However the ranger is supportive and would like to see this project move to being an example of coopertive use on a larger level.

It will be good to see some of the other plans up.

[Mark O'neill]

In response to a few other notes and following up regd. the last meeting with the ranger.

The entire face is designated Natural Forest area. As well the talus and scree at the base of the rock. Set back from the top of the face is a trail that is the differentiation between NFA and a Recreational Use area. Inside the NFA technical climbing is allowed on a conditional basis. He was not able to point me at a definition that would help with what must be met to meet the conditional use. The use matrix did spell out that the conditions would need to account for requirements of the adjacent areas.

Hope this helps with keeping everyone up to date on my project.

[Andy Fitz]

That's helpful. I was involved when State Parks created that matrix. I'll go back and dig around in my notebooks!

[Mark O'neill]

Just an update on this project. I had a meeting with the ranger yesterday continueing with this. It seems that the reason that he wanted something that had the broad scope is that he is leaving for a federal position (BLM, I think he said). He would have liked to have something that he could take along. He is leaving soon but is leaving notes that we should continue to work together. Now I am thinking I only need State parks along.

Thanks to all the help so far.
Mark

[jason kohler]

...what ever happened here?

It seems like the classic question: Asking permission to "develop" climbs vs. asking permission to "access" climbs which have already been "developed"?

I'm curious what the outcome was.

[DCramer]

Jason - I think he gave an update at the last WCC meeting. If I remember correctly, due to land use restrictions you can climb to the top of the cliffs but not over the top. Hopefully he'll see this and post a better reply.