Newhalem

[adsell]

In case you don't know Newhalem climbing is located just 5 minutes walk toward Diablo from the powerhouse bridge where the parking is located. You will find a faint (read you'll pass it first go most likely) trail on your left as you head toward Diablo. Following this trail will lead you to 22 pitches of climbing with the easiest grade of 5.9 of which there are only two of this grade. There are several 5.13's there as well and plenty 11's and 12's.

There is one 5.10b route that is not to missed, it is a 100 foot pitch of slab to gently overhanging rock following the prominent seam near middle of the cliff face. A definate classic.

The Rock is called Gneiss is a high grade metamorphic rock. This means that gneiss has been subjected to more heat and pressure than schist. Gneiss is coarser than schist and has distinct banding. This banding has alternating layers that are composed of different minerals. The minerals that compose gneiss are the same as granite. Feldspar is the most important mineral that makes up gneiss along with mica and quartz.

Right now we are in year 3 of a voluntary hold on developement with the park service. I have been working with Jason and Andy over the past several years to get this settled. We have been shoved to the bottom of the pile I fear as no further contacts or updates have happened since March.

[adsell]

And were still waiting for something to happen...

[Porter Hammer]

This is a guide that I came across a while ago:
Newhalem online climbing guide (http://www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/Map2.html)

Do you know this guy? He does mention that the development of the area is on hold till an agreement can be reached.
Note mentioning development hold. (http://www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/)

[adsell]

Yes. Misha is my friend and long time companion of Newhalem climbing. I did a large portion of route development and was involved with the access fund long before WCC came to be in trying to keep momentum in a management position.

I joined the WCC with the ideal that this would help unlock Newhalem from this 3 (going on 4) year moritorium on development.

I asked Misha to post that (warning) up as soon we were asked to HOLD our progress which we have.

As a founding member I am frustrated that an area that motivated me to action has not even recieved any serious attention with exception of Andy, Jonah and myself.

[Porter Hammer]

Can you bring me up to speed as to the issues and what can be done? I assume from the guide that we're mainly only talking about sport route development. What is the designation of the land the area is in?

[Andy Fitz]

Here's what we have in a profile on Newhalem to be linked to the "Climbing Area Information" page:

Ownership/Management:
Ross Lake National Recreation Area, managed by National Park Service (NPS).

Land Manager:
Roy Zipp, Natural Resource Specialist
North Cascades National Park Service Complex
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
360-873-4590

Current status:
All crags are open, but there is a voluntary moritorium on new route development and cleaning boulders (see below). Access to bouldering area may be blocked by road work on Highway 20.

Access considerations:
The NPS is expecting to begin work on a climbing management plan for the Skagit River Gorge in Fall 2005.

Until the climbing management plan is completed, climbers have been respecting a voluntary moratorium on: 1) developing new routes that involve fixed anchors and/or cleaning; and 2) cleaning boulders to allow climbing. Please respect this moratorium.

Please do not park illegally in Newhalem or along Highway 20.

General information:
For years, climbers speeding along Highway 20 have cast wondering glances at the cliffs of the Skagit River Gorge, just east of Newhalem. It's a good bet many made a note to come back and explore the area, but the intimidating (largely crackless) nature of the cliffs, a lack of easy parking and access, and a general lack of information have all conspired to keep the area largely undeveloped.

In the late 1990s, however, climbers began exploring and establishing routes on two cliffs close to Newhalem and one at the far end of the Gorge, near Diablo Lake. Soon after, a bouldering area was discovered partway up the Gorge. To date, more than 20 sport routes have been established, ranging from 5.9 to 5.13. There are also more than 40 boulder problems from V0 to V10. The potential for much more climbing exists. A partial online guide to one of the cliffs can be found at: Newhalem online guide.

Newhalem's rock is Skagit gneiss, a metamorphic rock that resembles granite. Although there are occasional loose flakes, the rock is generally sound and high-quality. Many walls are consistently overhanging. The walls are also deceptively large, growing in scale when you reach the base. There are very few cracks.

All the Newhalem crags are located within the Ross Lake National Recreation Area, which is administered by the National Park Service. In the summer of 2002, the NPS determined that an evaluation of environmental impacts from climbing needed to be undertaken to look at impacts to vegetation and possible cultural resources (e.g., historic rock shelters). Once this evaluation was complete, a climbing management plan could be developed. An NPS resource manager contacted the Access Fund. Local climbing activists agreed to voluntary refrain from further route and bouldering development until a climbing management plan was in place.

The NPS completed “scoping” of the environmental analysis in late 2003. However, due to a number of circumstances (including a massive washout of Highway 20), work on the climbing management plan has been delayed. The NPS now expects to draft the plan in Fall 2005.

[Jonah Harrison]

The task that remains is for us (and any interested party) to go up there and map out any potential climbing areas that we want to use in the future. I told Roy I would give him our wish list this summer for incorporation into the CMP.

I will call Roy tomorrow just to check in and get news of any progress.

[Jonah Harrison]

I just spoke with Roy Zipp at North Cascades NPS. Things are moving along well up there. DOT is the biggest hold up and biggest impediment to developing a CMP. But when they are done with their work, the CMP can get drafted and implemented with their input. Roy thinks that will be late September, early October.

In the meantime, anyone who is interested in climbing near Newhalem should go up there with a 1/24,000 quad, a compass and maybe GPS and hike around. Figure out any areas you might want to see climbing. Roy said he's not asking you to divulge your favorite secret spot, just to give a general geographical outline of areas of interest we want to be included in the plan. I told him we would get him some marked-up maps by the Fall.

Andrew, I assume you have the best insights into the potential there. Have you had a chance to check things out or would you be able to draw circles on a topo showing the goods?

[adsell]

Yes I think so.


I will contact David Speyer who has done a lot of the work with me up there and done more exploring than I have.

[Jonah Harrison]

I actually spoke with him up at Newhalem and have been emailing with him. He said he has a map made up, and may try to put it into an earth.google overlay.