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Fred Beckey, on the first ascent of Town Crier,
Index Town Wall, 1966.
Photo by David Beckstead.
  Washington Rock Climbing History in a Nutshell

1935
Beacon Rock given to State of Washington for operation as a State Park.


1948
Fred Beckey, Wes Grande and Jack Schwabland climb Midway, on Castle Rock, near Leavenworth. Leavenworth area crags had been used for "practice" prior to this, but this ascent of Midway is often thought to be the first modern "crag climb" in Washington.


1949
Pete Schoening climbs the Trigger Finger, at Peshastin Pinnacles (1965 guidebook reports 5 "protection bolts" in place; if placed during Pete's initial climb, these may have been the first bolts used on a rock climb in Washington).


1960
Fred Beckey, and Ron Nocccoli climb Outer Space, on Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth. Aid was used on the first ascent, but in the 1965 guidebook, the climb is rated 5.9, and it was subquently downgraded to 5.8+ and that put back up to 5.9 in current guidebooks.


1964
Dan Davis and John Holland climb Davis-Holland, on Upper Town Wall, near Index. Originally done on aid, this classic climb, with the now-standard finish via Lovin' Arms (Dan Lepska,1983) is widely regarded as one of the best 5.10 outings in Washington.


1965
Steve Marts, Don McPherson, and Fred Stanley climb Liberty Crack, on Liberty Bell, near Mazama. This climb was undertaken before the construction of the North Cascades Highway, with the 20 mile approach being made from "Roads End," in the Twisp River valley. The route has become a "must do" with the publication of Fifty Classic Climbs in 1979.

Fred Beckey and Eric Bjornstead publish Washington's first rock climbing guidebook, Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas.

1978
The Trigger Finger, at Peshastin Pinnacles, falls over in a winter storm.


1986
Todd Skinner free climbs City Park, 5.13c, on Lower Town Wall, near Index. This climb was the hardest climb in the State at the time.

Peshastin Pinnacles closed, largely out of concens for landowner liability.


1987
Vertical Club opens in Seattle. This was the first indoor climbing gym in the United States.


1992
Climbers solicit Omak tribal members' involvement in bolting conflict; tribal council closes Omak Reservation to rock climbing.

Peshastin Pinnacles reopened as a State Park, following purchase and sale to the State of Washington facilitated by the Access Fund, Recreational Equipment, Incorporated, and the Trust for Public Lands.


1994
First Leaveworth fire ravages Icicle Creek and Tumwater Canyons.

Tod's Wall and Knob Wall at Fossil Rock, southeast of Tacoma, closed to climbing due to concerns for sensitive plant species; bolts and artificial holds removed to enforce closure. This closure was mandated by the redesignation of this portion of the climbing area as a designated "Natural Area Preserve." Areas receiving this designation are to be managed for education and scientific research; not for recreation.


2001
Second Leavenworth fire burns in Icicle Creek Canyon

Winter Walk Wall at Vantage closed over private property issues and concerns for liability.


2002(?)
Two Sisters near Tri-Cities closed due to liability concerns.


2003
Washington's Recreational Use Statute, RCW 4.24.210, specifically amended to protect private landowners who permit rock climbing upon their land. (link to statute)

 

   




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